TOOLS HOBBY

So you have visited Tools Hobby. Sure you have reached right place for your information about Hand tools, Cutting tools, Measuring tools, Auto Workshop tools, Power tools as well as Safety Items. So keep updated from here and get a lot of knowledge.

Latest Tweets

LightBlog
Responsive Ads Here



When you are making a wood project and you need good joinery so good glues are available to hold your project together. But there are some types of wood glues. Today we will see different types of glues which woodworkers mostly use. How to select best glue for your project. Check these types which will 
teach you things like project tips.


1. PVA GLUE





Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue is the most common type of glue out there. It’s very common that if you have a bottle of glue in your house, it will be PVA glue. White glue, yellow glue, and bottles of “wood glue” are all likely to be PVA glue. Some special formulations of PVA glue is Titebond III and it is waterproof. The advantage of PVA glue is that it is easily available at your local store. But after you glue up your project, bits of dried PVA glue can interfere with your finish if you’re not careful to get rid of all of it.

Engineer’s Scriber




It is a tool used to mark or scribe a guide line onto a workpiece prior to it being machined. The name scriber came from the word scribe, which itself came from the Latin word scriba, which was a person who would write, engrave or inscribe documents. They are Specifically used to mark out metal work pieces due to their advantages over other marking methods on this type of material.


Drawbacks of using a scriber
Drawbacks of scribers over other marking tools are that the lines made by scribers cannot easily be removed, without grinding or polishing. That is why scribers are not always the best tool for marking out an area of the work piece that will also be visible in the finished part.
You also need to take care when using scribers means measurements you have taken should also be correct before you scribe the work piece.

1. Brad Point Bits for Wood







There are three main types of wood drill bits, they are characterized by the small point at the tip of the bit. Spurs on either side of the point will cut clean, straight holes. They are suitable for all types of wood and available in a huge range of sizes and lengths.




2. Auger Drill Bits




These types of bits cut large, deep accurate holes. The spiraling shaft comes to a fine, threaded point. Carbon-steel bits are best and it can be resharpened easily.



3. Wood Spade or Paddle Bits



The pointed tip begins the hole and the paddle-shaped blade bores wide, large holes. The size is clearly displayed on the paddle's face.


4. Metal Drill Bits



These are called high-speed steel (HSS) bits and are characterized by their black color. These are expensive, durable ones may contain cobalt or be titanium-coated. They can also be used on wood or plastic, but they last longer if reserved for metalwork.


5. Masonry Drill Bits





This type of bits can cut into many masonry surfaces. The shaft spirals up to a tip that is often composed of an extra-hardened material. Bit colors are different because of different materials used. The tip may be a different color from the shaft due to a hardened coating. For instance, a chrome-vanadium shaft may be finished with a tungsten-carbide tip.



6. SDS Bits






There is a wide range of special bits available which are made for a specific task, or to fit a particular type of chuck. These are made specifically to fit an SDS chuck mechanism, and will not work with any other chuck. The end that fits into the chuck has a fluted appearance and the drilling part of the shaft is normal.


7. Countersink Bits




These bits are used to cut a space for screw heads. They are ideal for preventing wood from splitting.


8. Tile and Glass Bits




 

This is spear-shaped tungsten-carbide tip which penetrates a tile or piece of glass and then enlarges the hole to the diameter of the tip's base.


9. Flexible Bit and Hole Cutter

 


 

A flexible drill shaft (left) attaches to the chuck and allows it to drill in an inaccessible area. It cannot be used with the drill in reverse action. A hole cutter bit sometimes also called a hole-saw. It comes in various sizes for cutting wood and metal. First drill bit cuts the piece, then the round cutter makes a larger hole.


10. Flat-Head Screwdriver Bits




Some bits insert directly into the chuck, but most need to be put in a bit holder, which is then inserted into the chuck. These are made for use with slot-headed screws.


11. Phillips Screwdriver Bits






Screws with a Phillips head must be driven by a corresponding bit.



12. Pozidrive Screwdriver Bits




 


These type of bits are made to drive a particular type of screws.


13. Square Drive Bits


 


These type of bits are often used for driving deck screws.


Different types of circular saw blades are manufactured to cut different materials and work projects with different power saws. Make sure the blade you choose is suitable for the material you need to cut. It is also necessary blade you choose; make sure it fits your saw. There are several specifications you should check.
Check blade diameter and type and compare these specifications with the capability of your saw. Acceptable sizes vary by saw model, but in general:
  • Handheld circular saws accept smaller blades, those 4-1/2 inches to 7-1/4 inches in diameter. These are usually carbide-tipped.
  • Tile saws use 7-inch or 10-inch diamond blades.
  • Table saws and compound miter saws use blades 10 inches or 12 inches in diameter. Like those for handheld saws, the blades are typically carbide-tipped.
  • Metal-cutting chop saws, also called abrasive saws or cut-off saws, have 14-inch silicon carbide or aluminium oxide abrasive blades.

Check the size of the arbor hole (the hole is in the center of the blade). It must fit the arbor or shaft on your saw. Many blades with a circular arbor hole include a piece you can knock out to allow them to fit saws with a diamond-shaped arbor.
To confirm it is compatible with the tool you plan to use. You have to note the maximum RPM (revolutions per minute) rating of the blade.

It is Good to Know

Blade diameter, arbor hole size, number of teeth and kerf — the thickness of the cut the blade creates — are typically printed on the face of a circular saw blade. You may also see a list of these blade types as well as maximum RPM and application specifications. 


1. Continuous Rim Blades:







Continuous-rim blades are a type of diamond-edged blades — sometimes these blades are called diamond blades — typically designed for materials such as slate and tile. Diamonds affixed to the edge of the blade cut through the material. These blades create a very clean finish. Some of these work in dry-cutting applications only, while others are only for wet-cutting projects and some work for either wet or dry applications.


Caution

While some blades are suitable for wet and dry applications and please note your saw must be suitable for the type of cutting you need to do.


2. Standard Circular Saw Blades:





Standard circular saw blades are typically used to cut wood or wood composites. The number of teeth on the blade helps determine the speed, type and finish of the cut. Blades which have fewer teeth cut faster but those which have more teeth create a finer finish. Gullets between the teeth remove chips from the work pieces. Expansion slots cut into the rim help prevent the blade from warping as it expands and contracts during use. They reduce vibration and create a straighter cut.
Rip-cut blades, are used for cutting with the wood grain (along the length of a board), which have fewer teeth (16 to 40). The teeth are designed to cut aggressively and deep gullets provide good chip removal. Crosscut blades, those for cutting across the wood grain (across the face of a board), have between 40 and 80 teeth designed for clean cuts. Smaller gullets separate the teeth. Combination blades use to make rip cuts and crosscuts. They have multiple groupings of teeth separated by deep gullets. Each group has one tooth for ripping and four for crosscutting.
You may also see blades with other designations:

  • Framing blades have 24 teeth and are very effective for work — such as rough carpentry — where speed is more important than a clean cut.
  • Plywood blades have 100 or more fine teeth designed to create a finish with minimal splintering.
  • Thin-kerf blades have a narrow profile for easier, faster cutting and less material waste.
  • Hollow-ground blades have a body that's thinner than the teeth — a design intended to help keep the blade from becoming pinched in the work piece.


It is Good to Know

Some standard circular saw blades can cut materials other than wood, such as plastic or aluminium.

3. Abrasive Blades:




Abrasive blades cut materials such as concrete and brick. Some abrasive blades are also suitable for metal-cutting applications. Like the diamond blades, they don't have teeth. They cut with an abrasive material such as aluminium oxide or silicon carbide.

4. Turbo Rim Blades:





Turbo-rim blades are diamond blades and similar to continuous-rim blades, but with a serrated rim that cuts materials such as brick and concrete. These blades cut more aggressively than continuous-rim blades but don't gives as clean a finish. Some work for dry cutting  only, but some are specially manufactured for both wet and dry applications.



5. Segmented Blades:




Segmented blades also cut have diamond edges, but have a rim divided by gullets similar to those on a standard blade. The segments create the most aggressive cut of the diamond blades. These blades cut very quickly than the other types and can also handle tough materials such as brick and concrete, but gives a rougher finish. Like continuous- and turbo-rim blades, some work for dry cutting, while others are appropriate for wet or dry applications.
Dot Punch                                                                   Centre Punch



The centre punch is made up mild steel which has a hardened and tempered point so that it withstands impact with the material it is marking. It is usually used to mark the centre of a hole to be drilled either by hand or on the drilling machine.

Dot punch is a lighter and thinner version of the centre punch and is also used for same purpose. However dot produced by dot punch is smaller than centre punch.

Centre and Dot punches both are used in the same way. A ball peen hammer is commonly used to tap the head of the punch and this delivers enough force to the point of the punch to put a small indentation into the surface of the material.
Wood Planer

A wood planer is a woodworking tool, which can be used for producing boards of even thickness that also needs to be totally flat on either side. While the traditional wood planer was more of a handheld tool, the modern power planers come with a planing platform for quick and accurate thickness adjustments and can be controlled either manually or electronically.
Nail Gun


It is a type of tool which drives nail into wood or some other type of material. It is usually operated by Compressed air (Pneumatic), Electromagnetism or by flammable gases i.e. Butane, Propane. If you're involved in wood working projects or want to fit something on wall then a hammer is a perfect tool: cheap, simple and entirely effective. But if you are building a two-story house, installing hardwood floors or running your own furniture repair shop, you may require a nail gun. These powerful machines launch nails at high speed, fully embedding them in a piece of wood in only a fraction of a second. Obviously, such a machine can save you hours of toil and sweat. They take almost every task out of nailing.
In other detailed designs, we will know how these popular machines launch nails at such outstanding speeds. As it turns out, there are a wide variety of nail guns available in markets.
See designs below.


1. Spring-loaded Design



Basically a nail gun has only two jobs:

  • It needs to concentrate a great deal of hammering force into a single mechanized blow, which can be repeated very quickly.
  • It needs to load a new nail after the previous nail is ejected.
There are many number of models available in markets that could handle these tasks. Since we can't look at every single model, we'll investigate a few representative designs.
The simplest nail guns use ordinary springs to generate the hammering force.
In this design, the motor (powered by a battery or household AC current) rotates two drive axles. The front axle moves a small scooper plate a metal disc with a curved groove cut into it, and the rear axle moves a gear train, which turns a small triangular metal cam. Now what happens when you pull the trigger:
1.    The triangular cam turns, pushing down one end of a lever.
2.    The lever pivots, pushing up on the hammer. As the hammer pushes up it compresses two springs.
3.    The hammer has a small knob attached to one end. As the lever pushes the hammer up, the turning scooper plate catches hold of this knob. At the same time, the rotating cam releases the lever, which releases the hammer. The hammer is now held in place by the scooper plate.
4.    As the scooper plate turns, it lifts the hammer higher and finally releases it.
5.   The two compressed springs drive the hammer downward at high speed. If a nail is in position, the hammer launches it from the gun.


2. Electromagnetic Design:





One effective hammering device is a solenoid. A solenoid is a simple sort
of electromagnet used in many machines. If you know How Electromagnets Work, then
you know the basic idea behind electromagnetic devices: Running electricity through a
wire generates a magnetic field. You can amplify this magnetic field by winding the
charged wire in a coil. Just like a permanent magnet, an electromagnetic field has a
polar orientation -- a "north" end and a "south" end. If you put two magnets together, the
same pole repel each other, but the opposite poles are attracted each other.

In an electromagnet, you can alter the orientation of the poles. If you reverse the flow of
the current, the north and south ends of the electromagnet switch places. A solenoid is
an electromagnetic coil which has a sliding piston inside it. In a nail gun, the piston is
made up of magnetic material. When you apply current one way through the coil, the
electromagnetic field repels the magnetic piston, pushing it out. But when you reverse
the current, the polar orientation switches and the electromagnet draws the piston back
in. Some solenoids have a spring mechanism to draw the piston back in. An
electromagnetic nail gun uses such a solenoid as a hammer. When you pull the trigger:

1.    When electric current runs in a circuit through the electromagnet so that the piston extends downward, the piston is attached to a sturdy blade.
2.    The blade makes contact with the nail, forcing it out of the gun.
3.    The piston hits an electrical switch at the bottom of the cylinder.
4.    This switch when throwing reverses the electrical current running through the electromagnet. The electromagnet draws the piston back in for another hit.


Solenoids are effective and reliable, but they have limited power output. A
solenoid gun may not be able to drive a nail through hard substances, at least not
in a single blow.
It is a tool used for hitting or beating a job (thing). It has a heavy head mounted at right angles at the end of a handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced if required.
A wide range of Hammers are available in varying shapes, size and weight. The different styles have different uses. One or two types are commonly available in every house.

1.               Ball Peen Hammer :


It is rounded and is usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball peen hammers are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz up to 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz). These are mostly used for general applications. Handles are normally made by wood, usually Ash or Hickory.

2.               Sledge Hammer :


This type of hammer is used for heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up concrete, stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the head may be used for blow's, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung like an axe. Wear suitable protective clothing, including safety glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb are commonly used and available in markets.

3.               Club Hammer :


Sometimes called a Lump Hammer, it has a double faced head, and is very useful for light demolition work, driving steel chisels and masonry nails. Weight 1135 g (2 1/2 lb) being commonly available. Handles are normally of wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin. As debris is likely to fly, the wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended.

4.               Claw Hammer :


It is the most popular hammer used for general work and available with a wood handle (often hickory) or steel handle with or without rubber grip. 455-680g (16 to 24oz) these mentioned weight are most popular and commonly available in markets. The claw is normally curved shape, and incorporates a 'V' cut-out to draw nails from timber. The claw is used to lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required. Care must be taken especially when using cheaper models as applied force can easily weaken the joint between the handle and the head.

5.               Cross Peen Pin Hammer :



It is a lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer and ideal for light cabinet and Joinery works. Weight 55g (4oz) are commonly available as per requirement.

6.               Cross Peen Straight Hammer :


It is mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the cross pein and it can be used for starting panel pins and tacks. 

7.               Soft Faced Hammer :


Many types are available with hard and soft rubber, plastic or copper faces. Some are available with a choice of faces which are interchangeable. Useful for striking materials such as chrome wing outs, where a steel face would cause indentation, dent or damage. In some cases, can replace a mallet for cabinet work or mechanical work (Engine rebuild) etc.

8.               Joiner’s Mallet :




The joiner’s mallet is characterized by two slightly angled flat faces and a large head. There are different sizes, but are usually quite large. They are excellent for heavy chisel work, where both power and precision are required. The flat faces provide you great accuracy, while the heft provides power.

The handle fits through a wedged mortise, so that either can be replaced. The centrifugal force from using the mallet keeps the handle tight in the head.